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Sunday, April 8, 2012

Scuffing, Masking and Prepping for Paint

The first coat of primer sealer has been drying for a week now.  House of Kolor says once the primer has dried more than 24 hours it should be scuffed with a maroon pad then another coat of primer should be applied and that's what we will do.  In this picture the scuffing process is done in the foreground.  Extra care is needed on all edges and corners otherwise we'll scuff through to green primer.


Scuffing takes several hours, many of it laying on your back getting those hard to reach places.  While scuffing I am looking for any blemishes, runs, lint or debris.  By fixing these flaws between each coat it reduces the chance of a substandard paint job.  If we were using a filtered paint booth we wouldn't need to be this critical.


There's a spot on the nose that's been scuffed through to the green primer.  This was caused by one drop of sweat when I was spraying the primer.  I'll have to remember to wear a sweat band next time.


Because we're shooting Kandy, the entire car must be assembled before it gets painted.  That means the door jambs, hood jamb, headlight recesses, and the rear valance areas must be painted before we can assemble.  To do that we have to mask the car body.


I like to start the masking process with masking tape only.  I apply the tape right at the edge of the body and the jamb.


I then install masking paper over the width of the previously applied tape. 


Then we just keep adding masking paper as needed.


I don't want overspray anywhere on the body so I decided to mask/cover the whole car.  This is overkill but I don't care.


I used plastic sheeting to complete the job.


Everything that's exposed is scuffed, degreased, and ready for paint.  These areas will get a second coat of black primer sealer,  two coats of Lapis Blue base coat, 3 coats of Cobalt Blue Kandy then two clear coats.  All of this will happen in succession over a couple hours.  We'll do that in a week or so after I receive a fresh order of catalyst.
Catalyst has a very short shelf life once opened.  For this reason, I only purchase catalyst in small quantities and I only purchase it when I need it.  Because of it's chemical nature catalyst can only be shipped by ground transportation so it will take a few days to get here.

I do have enough catalyst to make some paint repairs to the doors though.  I'll explain why we have to make repairs in the next post.

As always, thanks for watching.

7 comments:

  1. The coupe is looking fantastic,looking forward to the colour coats and then the assembly of all the mouldings and trim items. Why the two primers? do you need a specific primer for bare fiberglass?Keep up the high standard. Brian. Perth Australia

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  2. Hey Brian. The two part green primer is designed for steel, aluminum, OEM finishes, fillers and fiberglass. I have used it on several motorcycle paint jobs and they all turned out great so I am a little biased. The black primer/sealer is for OEM finishes and epoxy primers only. It can not be applied directly over fiberglass. We are using the black primer/sealer as a sealer to keep both of our blue colors and the clear coat from soaking into the green primer. It is a barrier. Without the sealer the car would loose its gloss over time. Great question. Thanks for the comments.

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  3. Nice job as always. Why do all the masking, then prime/paint all the inside stuff, and then reverse everything,(I assume)and mask the inside stuff, so you can prime/paint all the outside stuff? Why not just do it all, all at once ? China Jim

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  4. Great question. The reason is because I can't shoot behind the door hinges if the doors are installed. The factory did it "all at once" and they ended up leaving bare spots in these areas. I don't want that. Another reason is I have to shoot the car with the doors fully closed because of the Kandy. I wouldn't be able to shoot the jambs, close the doors, then shoot the car, otherwise the rubber door moldings would smear the wet paint. Hope all is well in China!

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  5. John, If you paint the door jambs, etc. seperately how do you eliminate paint lines when you do the rest of the body? Jim Q.

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  6. Jim, There are a couple products on the market that try to eliminate the masking tape edge. One product is foam on a roll. The foam is designed to soak up the paint without leaving an edge. The other product is a special tape with a raised edge. The idea is to let the paint spray get under the edge thus eliminating the edge. I have both products and we will use them when we paint the body. Another great question. Lets hope they work.

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  7. Nice Post. Thanks for sharing this information. Mask your car door, hood, or trunk fast & easily by tube tape aperture tape.

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