Purchased in Hawaii in 2009, our split window coupe has a 327 fuel injected engine and the very rare Heater Delete option. Our Corvette was restored over a 4 year period using original 1963 components. Modifications were limited to those popular in the late 1960's. Our vision... Period Correct/Era Modified.
If you thought I was just going to Dynamat the floors then both you and I were mistaken. Gerri kept coming out to the garage saying, "It's beautiful, keep going". So I did. As you can see there are lots of nooks and crannies in the luggage area of our 63 Corvette.
I have to admit it has a space ship kind of look to it.
Without air conditioning the roof insulation will be extra nice on those hot summer days.
The luggage stop is suppose to be riveted to the body but when I went to install it I found that the frame was in the way. It should have been riveted before the body was installed. No worries, I just got out my trusty Rivet Nut tool and installed threaded fittings. Stainless screws were used.
The interior looks nice from the front...
... and it looks great from the side.
My friend and fellow Corvette enthusiast Jim Q has hinted a couple times that the front end sits a little too proud. So I did some research at the National Corvette Restorers website and it turns out Jim Q was right. The heavy duty F40/F41 front suspension has a much heavier spring rate but it lowers the front end 1 1/2" from stock. They refer to the stance as "Being in the weeds". We are definately not in the weeds so I thought I'd better take a look.
What I found is a 6 coil spring with a free length of 14". That's the wrong spring for our car. The correct spring has 7 coils, a 12" free length and it has .668 wire. Part # is 3832518. The one in the picture is wrong.
So, thanks to Jim Q and Ebay, the front end is now down in the weeds.
I do like the California rake look but wheel clearance may be an issue. I did full turn clearance checks and it's OK, but when the car is driven we may have issues. The maximum wheel width on a 63 is suppose to be 6.5 inches. We're running 7's. We will just have to wait and see.
The wiring harness is on order but I have no idea when it will be delivered. It will most likely be the topic our my next posting though. Should be fun.
Many thanks for watching. We're at 80,000 views if you haven't noticed.
Post Script The coil springs discussed in this post are also incorrect. See the correct springs posted on March 10, 2013 or just follow this link: Coil Springs and Carpet
2013 marks the 50th year anniversary for the 1963 Corvette. Happy anniversary!
I am installing Dynamat Xtreme, a butyl and aluminum vibration dampener that is typically applied to floors and doors. Before I start installation I make sure the floor is as clean as possible. The floor has dried carpet adhesive from the factory so I used my Dewalt with an aggressive wire brush to remove loose particles.
That was followed by a thorough cleaning using HOK wax and grease remover.
The process is pretty simple but does take time, especially if you're particular about details. It's easy to get caught up trying to make the logos face the same way. It's not important though.
Switching to the drivers side, one might be compelled to make all the cuts a mirror image of the other side. Again, it's not important.
Only early 63 Corvettes have this tub area. No one knows for sure why they were installed or subsequently removed. There was a period when Chevrolet was considering a 4 seat Corvette but that was short lived. Some think this tub is the floor area for the back seat passengers. Whatever the reason, the tubs require a lot of cutting. There is no way a single sheet can be used here.
The driver and passenger sides are done in this picture. Time for the luggage area.
Not installed is a luggage stop that spans the width of the car just behind the seats. I have to keep that in mind as I install the Dynamat. I'll install the luggage stop just before carpet.
The technique is to first install large sheets then fill in the voids with small pieces. The Dynamat is best cut with a utility knife then rolled smooth. My joints are butted against each other, nothing overlaps.
Finishing tape goes over the seams and covers the sticky butyl rubber. It gives a nice finished look too.
I will continue working on the luggage area and will probably do the walls and roof also. Since our car is a Heater Delete the roof insulation will be welcomed on those hot summer days.
After the Dynamat is installed it will be time to purchase/install the wiring harness and that will be followed by lots of other purchased items. To give you an idea of the cost associated with the interior, the wiring harness, dash pads, re-upholstered seats and instrument cluster will cost around $1000 each. That means the completion of the interior will be governed by budget, not by hours spent in the shop. As such, weekly postings are no longer practical. I suspect monthly postings will be more appropriate. So, for you die hard followers, you should look for an update around the first of each month. I may post more frequently, but I'll at least post monthly.
As always, thanks for watching and have a great new year!