A 100 pound bag of sand was used to sandblast the drivers door. A few areas were exposed that need welding, one of which is circled on the right side of the photo.
Here is a close-up.
Using a pointed burr grinder the rusted area was removed then the hole was trimmed as shown.
A sheet metal patch was cut and held in place with a magnet.
The sheet metal is too thin for a continuous weld so a series of tack welds were used instead.
Additional tack welds were added until the entire area was welded.
Using a thumb sized burr grinder the crowns of the tack welds were removed.
A sanding disc was used for final feathering of the repair.
Next I get to tackle this.
Wish me luck.
Post Script Picture:
Repairs were made followed by a coat of JB Weld to fill the nooks and crannies.
I think you will need some luck to tackle that one,looks like the rust extends under the fiberglass.Do you need to remove the fiberglass skin to get to the rust?Love the blog, keep up the excellent work.Brian
ReplyDeleteBrian,
ReplyDeleteI decided to trim the fiberglass back just enough to make the weld. I used real short bursts on the welder to keep the heat down. The fiberglass held up real nice. The area where the sheet metal and fiberglass meet will be filled with 3M Ultrapro Sealant, a flexible material that can be sanded and painted. I added a picture of the completed repair at the end of the posting. Primer and block sanding will take care of any remaining irregularities. Thanks for the comments and question.
So are you learning about all these cool little fix it tricks as you go along, or have you found people on the web that are helping you? The little magnet trick as a example. That was Very cool. Jim p
ReplyDeleteThat was a little trick I learned a year ago when we were working on the A and B pillars. Found it on line like most of the other cool little tricks. The ear plugs in the threaded holes before paint was my idea but I am sure someone else did it somewhere sometime before me.
ReplyDelete