Gauge Cluster Installation

Before I stuck my head under the dash I did everything I could to  make sure I was ready.  I triple checked to make sure all the wires were marked and the dash bulbs were installed, made sure the tachometer and speedometer cables were positioned properly, and I made sure the oil line from the oil pressure gauge was fed through the proper hole in the fire wall.  I also installed the trip odometer reset cable to the gauge cluster. 

I installed my homemade aluminum rods into the dash screw holes then I slid the dash cluster into position.  These rods give me a little extra room to hook up the wires.

I used zip ties to keep the dash cluster from sliding off.  Some electrical connections were easier to make from the outside.  These included the light switch (shown), the ignition switch, and the three bulbs located at the top of the cluster.  All other connections were made from behind the dash.

I installed the tachometer and the oil line to the gauges first then I made the engine compartment connections.  This allowed me to slide the cluster without getting push back. 

Hooking up the dash cluster was a little overwhelming to begin with but as each wire was connected the job became less intimidating.  When all the connections were made  the cluster was pushed into position.  One by one the aluminum rods were removed and replaced with a dash screw.  It's tight behind there but everything fit.   

Check out the dash lights.  I like it!

This is a video of the dashboard in action.  Enjoy.

Dash Gauges in Action

Dash Cluster

Here is our 63 dash cluster shortly after the gauges were removed.

Everything below was done twice.  The first time I used rattle can paint which had ugly results.  The paint was too thick, too shiny and the masking tape left marks.  I sandblasted everything off then started again. 

The bezels, simulated leather backing, outer trim, switch receptacles and lettering are one piece of aluminum.  There are no pieces.  In this picture I taped off the simulated leather backing then spray painted the same House of Kolor 2 part epoxy primer I used on the car.  

All the bezels were sanded smooth.  You can see where the primer filled in the pot marks and blemishes.  This gets another coat to make sure all the metal has primer.  But first...

I need to prep the back side for paint.  This area was painted light green at the factory.  I believe this is what gives the gauges a green glow at night.  The color is close to our primer so I'll just use that. 

This is after the second coat of primer.  It has already been sanded smooth.

Next is two coats of primer sealer.  This will keep the final color from turning dull over time.  

The backside turned out very nice.

To simulate chrome I used House of Kolor silver striping paint with a hardener.  I also used a reducer so I could shoot it with an airbrush.  3 full coats were used then allowed to dry and harden.

 

The masking tape was removed from the simulated leather backing then I masked everything that I wanted to stay silver.   I taped over all the openings so that the back side wouldn't get painted.

The semi-gloss paint I used previously was too glossy.  I tried some satin black but it also was too glossy.  I decided on Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, the same paint I used on the frame.  The finish is perfect and it should be able to stand-up to a lot of key abuse.  I airbrushed around the bezels to insure good coverage up against the silver then I used a regular HVLP spray gun to insure uniformity.  The texture and gloss is exactly what I wanted.

Before the black paint dried I used an eraser on the raised lettering.  That removed the black and exposed the silver beneath.  It turned out very nice.  Click on the picture and check it out.

Now all I have to do is stuff the cluster with this.

Thanks for watching.